We last visited Madrid a little over a decade ago. It was such an idyllic time – wandering around Spain’s beautiful capital under its endless sunshine and sipping Mahou without a care in the world. Mainly, the Only YOU Boutique Hotel (C. del Barquillo, 21, Centro, 28004) was at the center of this memory. Converted from a 19th century mansion, the rooms are smartly fitted in low-key luxury. Once you depart this serene cocoon, you’re in the middle of the exceptionally lively Chueca, with swarms of tourists, school groups, and weekenders queuing up for shows at the Teatro Enfanta Isabel. In an ever-changing world, it was nice to see the Only YOU – and Madrid – had not changed much.
There was no goal for this long weekend – just to walk around and embrace our inner Madrileños while devouring as much pan con tomate as possible. Descending into a rainy morning, the misty start called for some cafe time. We hit up what would become our daily hub, Toma Café 1 (C. de la Palma, 49, Centro, 28004) – a spartan space filled with good music and offering a pan con tomate that was one of the most perfect dishes, ever. The crispness of the bread, the olive oil’s richness pooling over, topped with a dollop of vibrant Spanish tomate rosa that is the perfect balance of fruity and savory – it is truly capable of curing jet lag/hangover/anything.
A second goal was to visit the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (or simply, the Reina Sofía, C. de Sta. Isabel, 52, Centro, 28012), to pay our respects to Picasso’s Guernica. Especially in this exceptionally miserable time of war and societal uncertainty, it felt even more emotional viewing the masterpiece than in times past. Man Ray’s Larmes (Tears) also struck a chord in the recurring theme of feeling weighed down by the world. Even if you spend your time on this floor alone, you’re surrounded by the best of Spanish avant-garde, Surrealism, and Cubism.
Aside from the pan con tomate, another weekend focal point was to enjoy laid-back tabernas for unfussy comfort food. I love tapas as much as the next guy and the mystery act of accepting and eating what is given is a lot of fun (aka “what is this morcilla and will I like it?”). It was exceptionally enjoyable at Bar Sidi (Calle de Colón 15, 28004) munching on the zingiest patatas bravas and a crunchy bocadillo de calamares while people watching during a late night Sunday La Liga football session where kids snoozed and parents enjoyed beers until the end. After all, 11pm is literally childs’ play dining time for the average Spaniard. Having been around since 1943, Bar Sidi definitely felt like one of those “beating heart” places where all walks of civic life convene and there is never a dull moment. The equivalent to a British pub no doubt.
Some of my favorite Anthony Bourdain content was when he traveled to Spain. You could tell his appreciation of the quirky, left-field gastronomy over many other European destinations. But true to his core, he also dined at classic tabernas, and it was finally time to see these places in person. My cynical side these days feels like every old restaurant is destined for closure, but I still hold out hope, especially in Europe where there is more of an appreciation for storied spots where servers still wear a uniform and the history overpowers the need for another disposable trend. The walls of Restaurante Casa Salvador (C. de Barbieri, 12, Centro, 28004) are strewn with imagery of bullfighters and bullfighter-adjacent folklore. Dark wood paneled walls and check tableclothes of this two-story spot were packed with groups enjoying comforts like battered hake (a staple). The albondingas (meatballs) in a velvety, bright paprika-tomato sauce were smokily moreish, in addition to the perfectly fluffy tortilla. Night two focused on Taberna San Mames (C. de Bravo Murillo, 88, Chamberí, 28003), further out from the center of town. Known for their callos con garbanzos, the richness of the tripe, beans, and piquant peppers was something I was not prepared to enjoy as much as I did. As usual, Tim was a little shy tucking into tripe, but appreciated the very Italian scarpetta dipping factor of the bread in the sauce. Another night, another hake – this time lightly fried and followed by an exceptionally boozy tarta de chocolate al Armagnac (rich chocolate tart with a French brandy). This experience did justice to Bourdain’s time in this tiny, tile-laden space where a family-led brigade of servers and chefs whip between kitchen and dining room packed with obviously lifelong customers.
To round out the trifecta of tabernas, I needed to roll deep into Iberian mariscos. Tucked away in residential Tetuán, we spent Sunday afternoon with a showstopping Galician lunch at La Castañal Marisquería (C/ de Berruguete, 78, Tetuán, 28039). If you want to feast on the Iberian coast while still immersed in urban Spain – this is the place. By 1pm it was packed with families and walk-ins were turned away. People were settling in for an afternoon of eating roe out of a massive crab and toothpicking their way through mini mariscos. Veggies did make an appearance at the start, in a stellar empanada gallega. Because Tim is a kind person who knows how much lobster means to me, he forewent a steak to share a massive arroz con bogavante – a beautiful clawed lobster floating within paella and its juices. The amount of lobster meat was ridiculous as was the effervescent saffron from the rice. Tim did get his dessert wish, ending with a tarta de Santiago, a rich almond cake native to the region.
I left Madrid feeling totally placid – which is exactly what this city is all about. And, like all visits to Spain, could not shake that salty taste in my mouth.
elbows on the table 