It so happened that Timbo’s parents had embarked on a month-long voyage across the Atlantic on the mighty Queen Mary 2. They were heading up the East Coast to Quebec City and it was the perfect opportunity for a regional amuse-bouche.
After a swift 45-minute flight, we had only eight hours in Montreal (four of them sleeping). Despite whizzing by in the dark, the city felt exceptionally French with North American architectural might. We spent the short evening wandering around Mile End’s residential plex-lined streets, taking in its culture – a mix of French, Jewish, Greek and more. Bagel duty called, and I arose with the sun to prep our St-Viateur bagels before boarding a bus to Quebec City. Three hours and lots of agriculture later, we arrived in one of North America’s oldest settlements resting on the St. Lawrence River.
The city is comprised of peaks and steep hills dotted with towering structures from Frontenac to the Plains of Abraham to Vieux-Quebec. Divided into the upper and lower towns, “Haute-Ville” and “Basse-Ville”, it’s easy to feel like you’re experiencing two different cities. Haute-Ville is comprised of the old town’s picturesque touristic sites, a sliver of colonial France towering over the river. But the true working class Quebecois heart beats in the lower town.
We stayed in the “trendy” Saint-Roch neighborhood. Rue Saint-Joseph Est leads into Rue Saint-Vallier O, a stretch of food and drink excellence. Sandwiched along this winding street are independent restaurant groups that appear to thrive on civic camaraderie and an obvious joie de vivre for Franco-North American drinking/dining. It seems like L’Affaire est Ketchup gaining publicity on Parts Unknown provided a lens into this little world.
Montreal
Nouveau Palais (281 Rue Bernard O) This was very much a 2018 restaurant-bar in the body of a 1970s Canadian diner. With only a few hours to experience Montreal nightlife, we ventured to Mile End wanting a late dinner and walked into wall-to-wall wood paneling, with extra Canuck points for taxidermy. It was everything I was looking for and more. Unlike a typical greasy spoon, the menu is a tasty mix of Canadian-American comfort executed with superior know-how: a popular burger, moules frites, fried chicken and poutine. After dinner we went to a few more spots around the area, but were lured back to the Palais for a nightcap to sit at the luncheonette counter-turned-bar to get in a few last drops of this exceptional spot.
St-Viateur Bagel (263 Rue Saint Viateur O) As a New Yorker who loves bagels I had been dying to try Montreal’s rendition for a long time. The beauty of exploring late-night Montreal included a stop at St-Viateur’s original shop that never closes. Expecting the usual NYC experience that overwhelms you with topping and schmear varieties, I was happy to choose good old sesame and a tub of Liberté cream cheese that was a little on the sour side, but somehow complemented the chewy, honey-hinted bagel. It was the best Montreal souvenir to take on the next morning’s regional bus ride.
Snack’n Blues (5260 St Laurent Blvd) A dimly lit bar whose axis revolves around the two old men owners constantly filling up bowls of bar snacks and making sure their patrons are happy was a delightful find. An impressive DJ booth overflowing with jazz/blues, and retro BBC nature programs on a projector was all very art-house. Mile End’s cool kids populate the space, playing pool and congregating at tables. It was nice watching generations come together appreciating a timeless bar.
Quebec City
Phil’s Smoked Meat (461 Rue Saint-Joseph Est, Québec) It was officially crisp Canadian autumn and after a morning of travel, hunger was mounting for smoked meat and poutine. Another Montreal staple, smoked meat is result of the Jewish diaspora and the abundance of places you can find quality eats shames NYC into 2nd place as a deli meat destination. The menu was solely smoked meat in traditional sandwich varieties or “quirkier” offerings smattered over spaghetti or poutine. The sandwich was tender and went against the grain topped with recommended dijon, while the poutine was the perfect gooey accompaniment. It was the best way to sample two regional dishes in a place that knows what it’s doing.
Pied Blu (179 Rue Saint-Vallier O) My quest to find Lyonnaise specialty quenelle de brochet led me to this homey spot, located in the epicenter of Saint-Roch’s stellar dining street. Specializing in offal and meat-centric dishes, one side of the space presents itself like a butcher shop, with the wood-clad dining room small enough to feel intimate but jovial. We sat in a tiny side room among lace curtained windows, the perfect set up for three courses of rustic fare. Kicking off with a hearty variety of pâtés and dried sausages, spread across fresh baguette. Sticking to the most mainstream dish on the menu, beef bourguignon was my family’s choice. Rustic hospitality and generous portion size seem to be core to any Quebecois spread, and a steaming large cauldron of bourguignon was presented, swimming in a rich red wine bobbing with carrots. My quenelles were the perfect balance of airy texture floating in a rich Nantua sauce, reminding me of where my obsession began with this dish at Moisonnier in Paris. It was an interesting contrast to the even lighter, foamier version at Aux Lyonnais. In true Gallic style, remixed with modern approaches to dining, a cool chef from the Alps slumped down, plonking a crate of digestifs and shot glasses. $5CAD a drink, tell them how many you had and you’re leaving with a smile on your face having experienced the perfect balance of high cooking in a cozy Quebecois homestead.
Kraken Cru (190 Rue Saint-Vallier O) After dinner at Pied Bleu the chefs recommended we visit fellow food voyageurs across the street for a nightcap. A tinier space than Pied, Kraken specializes in fruits de mer, and definitely can’t house more than 40 people. The tiny bar was packed and kind patrons who made room for two more. We pulled up a stool to view a minuscule kitchen with a stove dating back to the 70s, a tiny worktop and a narrow well-stocked bar. Like Parisians, it seems that the Quebecois know how to make use of every inch of space they’re dealt. Abundant platters of oysters and such were presented to super cool clientele, and despite wanting to enjoy another night with the Cru, they were of course hosting a party for a local cider brewery on Sunday.
Le Renard et la Chouette (125 Rue Saint-Vallier O) We planned on a traditional 1960s-esque French dinner at Le Continental in the old town, but the lure of spending one more night in Saint-Roch beckoned. Located a few doors down and also owned by the Pied Bleu team, Le Renard feels more casual and communal, still the same rustic space but whitewashed and brighter with an open kitchen. The changing menu leans towards small plates and family style dishes – from French classics to Middle Eastern standards thanks to the chef’s heritage – think cassoulet to doner kebab platters. It was the eve of regional elections and we chatted with the young team about Quebecois matters, like healthcare and their unique culture, over shots of Acerum (liquor made from fermented and distilled maple sap concentrate). Again, we left with a warm feeling thanks to the Acerum and our fortunate consistent exposure to genial locals.
Chez Tao! (104 Rue Saint-Vallier O) As mentioned, I am never seduced by the concept of a cocktail bar, but this place was truly impressive and most importantly unpretentious. Apparently this bar gets “loud” and passing by Saturday night was proof, but visiting on a quieter Sunday night was pleasant. 90s hip hop was the soundtrack and another friendly (+ very talented) bartender talked to us about his Quebec, while sharing a new drink he was trialing. I don’t even know what he did but a beautifully presented cocktail with elements of fruit spices went into a tiny “smoking box”, was topped with sesame seeds and christened with a large square ice cube branded with the bar’s logo. I had never been so impressed with a drink presentation before, and the amount of care that went into this creation surpassed that of any bar in NYC I’ve experienced. I didn’t want the night to end.
Deux22 (222 Rue Saint-Joseph Est) One of my favorite bars in NYC was called the Dressing Room and it was part clothing store, part bar. It was nice to relive the memories of drinking in a hybrid retail-bar. The drinks and plates are mainly Mexican and this was another quality bar to enjoy a few on this lively street.
Fou-Bar (525 Rue Saint-Jean) This was my favorite street within the Haute-Ville. Fou-Bar reminded me of a classic French auberge where you can drink whatever and stay however long, with locals and staff erupting into raucous conversation and laughter, allowing the ambience to speak for itself.
elbows on the table 