Every time I have a hankering for ramen I think “I need to go to CALCUTTA.” It’s very annoying. Once I remember that this wonderful little space is called Karakatta, the quest begins, and I am pestering Timbo or a friend to join me. Yes I know, we’re all experts on ramen now. We use words like “bouncy, silky, wavy, hand-pulled” to describe the various types of noodles floating before us, and “velvety, umami, murkily hearty” to talk about the broth we slurp up with those large wooden ladles. In a city rife with below average ramen vs. the real deal – I wouldn’t even begin to doubt the validity of Karakatta because upon walking in, you know this is serious biz (the owner also has Mr. Taka on the LES and Bigiya in Japan).
There is a claustrophobic joy brought on by dining here, with every inch of the space serving a dutiful purpose that fits no more than 30 patrons. You’re either propped up on a stool flanking the open kitchen (which is a treat) or nestled tightly in low-level seating. The large neon pink signage emanates throughout the space, seeping into your eyeballs and serving almost as a fiery warning that spiciness is underway. I almost wondered how the lovely servers don’t go slightly jumpy (a la Kramer in the “Kenny Rogers Roasters” neon sign episode).
Take in the blinding surroundings and wait for your palette to be empowered by the jumbo gyoza, pillowy pork steamed buns and the crunchy yet goopy karaage. Karakatta focuses on spicy ramen, and the Spicy Ginger Stamina is the main attraction. One minute your mouth is tingling (you can up the spice levels quite liberally), soothed by ginger zing, then tempered by the tender, smoky pork belly. I love the crunch of the cabbage and peppers for texture’s sake.
Major shout out to their drinks menu. Happy hour is 40% off booze until 7pm on weekdays, including ice cold Japanese beers, and J Pop, wonderfully described as a “1970s Japanese sparkling cocktail.” Even if the ramen was terrible I think I would come back just for the grapefruit J Pop, jumbo gyoza and some happy hour window gazing onto Thompson Street in this delightful hot pink room.
Ideal for: A party of four max, any bigger and getting a table or row at the bar will be difficult and not fun for conversational purposes. If you can, come early (6pm is a golden time).
Eat up: Jumbo Gyoza (pork or veggie), Steamed Buns (pork or fried chicken), Karaage (fried chicken topped with copious scallion and spicy mayo). Spicy Ginger Stamina ramen or Veggie Curry.
Fancy a nearby nightcap? Dante for a romantic cocktail in old-world surroundings or 142 Sullivan to keep the party-in-a-small-space vibe going.
elbows on the table 