I will never forget how the blue of a Swedish summer’s night faded to mist in mere seconds….
Having wanted to visit Helsinki for a long time, there weren’t any accommodating direct flights from New York to maximize a long weekend’s visit. Better flight options to Stockholm and my friend Amy’s enthusiasm for catching an overnight ferry to Helsinki resulted in a resounding group “yes” – and rooms were immediately booked for a one way journey on the Viking liner.
An early morning Stockholm arrival allowed for ample frolicking time. Yes – when in Stockholm, we frolick. Any opportunity to spend a few hours there is the stuff I dream of. The perfect half day experience is devised of: kanelbullar for breakfast, getting hopped up on ginger shots from the delightful Joe and the Juice chain, a snack of korv med bröd (aka hot dogs) from our favorite cart Oves Hjulkorv (Kungsgatan 43), and finally, a visit to the holy grail that is Svenskt Tenn (Strandvägen 5) for a dreamy lax lunch of toast skagen at their namesake cafe. Having to unglue myself from Stockholm’s streets, we boarded a much grander (than I imagined) Viking ship – replete with tourists like ourselves and many a group of Swedes and Finns – sports teams, stag dos – you name it. The boat was already boasting party vibes and we did not even depart Sweden’s shores yet.
I had never taken a cruise before. But, my prediction of settling into a tiny room and an even tinier shower rang true. The tiny accommodations are a meager concern, as you’re spending the majority of your time dining and meandering around the ship. The lively dinner buffet is splattered with the colors of the Scandinavian rainbow – earthen tones for reindeer meat, the bright oranges of trout roe, and the beautiful hues of salmon – smoked, sauteed, etc. I love the balance of Scandinavian cuisine – an even-keeled offering for carnivores and pescatarians alike. Dinner turned to drinks on the deck – gazing at the true blue waterways of the Baltic, dotted with classic red cabins nestled amidst swaths of lush, verdant pines. As the sky began to dull from blue to gray, we turned inwards to the disco, with partygoers dutifully singing karaoke to anything from ABBA to Frank Sinatra, increasingly clouded by fumes from the smoking nook perched above the bar.
As one does at this point in the night, we made our way to the expansive duty free shop. Maybe it was being a few lagers into the evening or the weird feeling one gets with lack of window access, but we were compelled to buy mementos as we swung our wagon through the aisles laughing like giddy teenagers. I walked out of said shop wearing sky blue aviators, Tim in a bucket hat, and Amy crouched in a corner eating a giant Toblerone.
Safe in our sleeping quarters, we awoke to the blue skies of Finland, followed by another assault on the buffet, with the shoreline fully in view. Spending two days in Helsinki felt like a good starter for a hopeful return. I had always envisioned Helsinki as a two-sided coin. One side is the tattoo-clad, black metal-tinged town that heartily endures the endless winter darkness. The other side is of endless summer daylight and images of whimsical Moomin characters. All stereotypes of course, and Helsinki is a complicated place that wears many faces agnostic of the seasons. Walking around, you’ll notice that brutalist Finnish architecture is complimented by the delicate designs from the grandfather of modern Scandi design (and a personal favorite), Alvar Aalto. Staying at the Hotel Helka (Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23), you’ll find every ounce of space ensconced in Aalto/Artek designs, and it was truly a top fiver of a hotel room that I never wanted to leave.
Antique shopping is a best-of for Artek, Iitala, Marimekko, Moomin, and much more. The best experience was at the expansive treasure trove Helsinki Secondhand (Korkeavuorenkatu 5). Search hard enough and you’ll find exceptional goods – from limited edition signed 1970s Iitala pieces to rare cuts of vintage Marimekko fabric. While I still see Stockholm as my shining star of Scandi dining, Helsinki had memorable meals of the standards – comforting meatballs and some of the most pillowy mashed potatoes I ever had at Restaurant Sea Horse (Kapteeninkatu 11).
Two days in Helsinki were followed by an early morning flight back to New York via Stockholm. Thanks to the pleasantries of Scandinavian travel, even when you’re running from station to station, airport to airport, you’re always met with above par amenities to make the experience feel civilized and miles away from the chaos that modern day travel can bring.
elbows on the table 