I’ve never been anywhere with such high-stakes dining as France. Maybe the pressure to eat well is all in my head, but I always feel the need to do a ridiculous amount of homework before setting foot in this country. Last year’s visit to Lille proved it was much easier to zoom in on the great spots when in a manageably sized city – and not a poor meal or snack was had. But, Paris has always been this bestial force of dining. I always feel like I run the risk of choosing a great or horrible restaurant – because to me, a mediocre meal defies all that France stands for.
On this recent summer trip, Timbo and I scored a reasonably priced Norwegian Air flight over Labor Day weekend. Five days and four nights was enough time to rekindle our affair with Paris. This time we decided to stay in the trendy 20th, with the wonderfully buzzy Mama Shelter as our base. Our visit was a perfect contrast of Paris’ old and new school of wonders. We discovered that pizza in Paris is something to seek out, and that a good time in Paris knows no ending.
Traditional Eats
Aux Lyonnais (32 Rue Saint-Marc 75002) I discovered my love of Lyonnaise cooking at the now shuttered Moissonnier. I still dream of their quenelle de brochet, a poached pike fish dumpling smothered in a Nantua sauce (essentially a crayfish bisque) served in a piping hot casserole dish. Since this beloved husband and wife outfit closed, I was forced to find the next best option. I knew Aux Lyonnais would be an experience – it’s an Alain Ducasse establishment, so how could we go wrong? The setting is a Belle Époque beauty, the prix fixe menu is a must and the service is impeccable. Three courses for lunch at 34 Euro and you can’t go wrong. The quenelle de brochet was delicious, as was the île flottante dessert that was devilishly sweet yet angelic in appearance. To say that this place is an indulgence is an understatement.
Le Vieux Belleville (12 Rue Envierges, 75020) I like having fun. Sometimes I like having too much fun. Our evening at this cozy bistro high up on Belleville’s peak was one of the best nights I’ve ever had. I guess you could say the main focus of this place is “dinner theater” but that sounds a little too Chorus Line. Let’s say this is French version of dinner theater which involves a room full of Parisians eating well, drinking copious amounts of wine and singing traditional chansons bursting with regional – and collective French pride. I don’t think I’ve ever wished to be French more than on this night. The chanteuse at the center of it all was Minelle, who rocks up with a bounty of accordion gear, dutifully handing out sheet music in between songs, and kindly served as our English translator. I thought this place would be brimming with tourists, but we were the only outsiders in this wonderfully inclusive environment. The food was simple and done well – a heaving shepherd’s board of cheese and charcuterie followed by perfectly skewered steak brochette and dauphinois, plus copious amounts of red wine that could sink a small ship.
Chantefable (93 Avenue Gambetta, 75020) In my fake Parisian life I would live around the corner from this neighborhood brasserie, frequenting every week, and then die slumped over in one of those big metal champagne buckets. Chantefeble appears to be an unassuming, average corner spot until you step inside…. The atmosphere checks all the boxes one wants out of a classic Parisian bistro. Oversized mercury glass mirrors and blood red banquettes line the space. The bar is replete with clanking glasses filled with aperfits/digestifs/bubbles. The genial staff are buzzing around and engaging in banter with the regulars. Pristine tartares, flavorful steak frites, buttery sole and ooey gooey profiteroles were guarantors of a happy evening.
Pizza
Louie Louie (78 Rue de Charonne, 75011) I dare say that this is the best Neapolitan-style pizza I’ve ever had. Pillowy dough that had the right char, tangy sauce piled with plentiful toppings, glistened with olive oil. Washed down with a coolly packaged Italian cola or homemade soda syrup (still dreaming of the grape), and it doesn’t get any better than this. The 1960s Italianate interior is appropriate for a Michelin-starred space, rounding out this place to be a 10/10.
Il Posto (356 Rue des Pyrénées, 75020) Louie Louie was a magical pizza experience, and Il Posto was a level or two below, but still standout. Continuously packed all night, we ate al fresco fueled by plentifully cheap wines and spritzes. Il Posto served as a great starting point to a night of madness in cooler-than-thou Belleville.
Paris’ Nightlife Revolves Around Belleville/20th
Chez Cosette (41 Rue des Envierges, 75020) Life doesn’t get any better than sitting on a quiet residential Parisian side street, peering (non creepily!) into balconied Parisian apartments and wondering what life would be like if you were a denizen. 1950s Americana tunes wafted in the background and faded into the balmy air, ice cold local beers were on tap and in true Gallic style, you felt like you could hang out until dawn and nobody would care.
Culture Rapide (103 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020) This kitschy bar’s decor felt like it was stuck in the 90s (in a good way), with a decently packed events program plus a spacious outdoor section that spills into the vibrant Rue de Belleville. We walked in for the last moments of their Thursday night English spoken word show. A very talented American gal belted The Cranberries’ “Zombie” on the ukulele in a room full of Francophiles and Anglophiles. If you’re an expat Brit or American looking to make friends/build a community, this is a great place to make it happen.
Aux Folies (8 Rue de Belleville, 75020) Down the hill and this spot is a must, even for one drink. I wouldn’t even question a place that has been a social mainstay since… the 18th century. I love that Parisians embrace drinking outside into the wee hours, something we could only dream of in New York or London. The pink neon classic signage calls to you, and you’re sucked into the wonder of this sedate cafe by day and party bar by night.
La Bellevilloise (19-21 Rue Boyer, 75020) Northeastern Paris was, and is, a beating heart of Paris’ working class culture. It’s no surprise that as times change, this almost 151-year-old building was home to the city’s first workers cooperative and is now an events space. The airy courtyard was heaving with queues of punters and beefy bouncers who were surprisingly intimidating despite the indie club vibe. We popped in for the Do You 80s? dance party in the massive ballroom, just when the playlist turned to French/Euro 80s pop. It was a delight observing French partygoers getting nostalgic to the songs of their youth that didn’t involve usual suspects like Madonna or Duran Duran.
Café
Le Pure Cafe (14 Rue Jean-Macé, 75011) There isn’t anything cooler than watching dear Anthony Bourdain knock back some coffees during his No Reservations visit. Perched on an idyllic, peaceful side-street in the 11th, the bright cafe has a lovely bar with good coffee and an atmosphere so overwhelmingly Parisian I left feeling quite emotional thinking of Mr. Bourdain and his contributions.
Officine Universelle Buly 1803 (45 Rue de Saintonge, 75003) Stepping into Le Marais location of this 19th century fragrance atelier is surprisingly therapeutic. This Old World-apothecary is a treat to the senses – including a glacé and café bar leading to a cozy, dimly lit room featuring an artisan who specializes in dried flower wreaths.
Cuillier (19 Rue Yvonne le Tac, 75018) A Sunday morning walk up Montmartre was cathartic yet briskly timed before the onslaught of tourists. We headed down to nearby Abbesses, and there was Cuillier, a mini coffee chain. Pull up a stool in this bright, beautifully designed space and sip the morning away to the sound of good music among cool patrons.
Glacé
Berthillon (29-31 rue Saint-Louis en l’île 75004) If heaven had a taste it would be the cerise glacé from this Parisian ice cream institution. The original outpost is situated in the Île St-Louis, a sliver of land between Notre Dame and Rive Gauche. The queues are always long, but beyond worth the wait. The texture is unlike any frozen treat I’ve ever encountered, with meticulous quality control and first class flavor being the priority. Having a cherry and chocolate cornet overlooking the Seine, tasting ice cold, tart cherries bursting in my mouth was utter bliss.
