Copenhagen: Eat the rules

What does “foodie” even mean anymore?
I still cannot wrap my head around Copenhagen’s dining landscape. It is a city where Noma and its real (and faux) foodies have congregated since the millennium to splash cash and elevate its reputation as a culinary untouchable. But, it’s also a city where the highest praise is also given to the local pølsevogn/hot dog or kanelsnegle/cinnamon bun purveyor. Regardless of whatever the jargony term “foodie” means anymore, Copenhagen tirelessly proves there is little tolerance for mediocrity in churning out a food product whether it is below $5 or over $500. It’s funny writing about Copenhagen after watching the hit American series The Bear and observing aspiring pastry chef Marcus’s visit, where he palms a hot dog, staring in awe at its delicate construct, then spends his days working on some of the world’s most complex dessert presentations. That episode pretty much sums up the level of food appreciation you will encounter here.

Embrace the traditional
In my opinion, if you want to create a successful Danish dining capsule – limit the experimental and bone up on the classics. The Scandinavian palette is an appreciation of salty, bitter, sweet, and bland – sometimes all mingling in one dish. You can tickle your palette at traditional taverns like Restaurant Puk (Vandkunsten 8, 1467) and Restaurant Karla (Dantes Plads 1, 1556) where reliable offerings span from generous hunks of beef artfully surrounded by a mote of piped mashed potatoes to shellfish bisques to the always-reliable array of smoked fishes. Then, you’ll need to mine the aquavit menu selection (known in Denmark as snaps) – a distilled liquor from grain or potatoes, with a distinct lean towards caraway or dill flavor, served in small, chilled shot glasses. Some servers might be enthusiastic about their modern, trendy aquavits on offer and the explosion of notes you’ll experience (see: Restaurant Puk). On the contrast (and true to the frank Danish form), other servers might bluntly admit they think it is disgusting, then slam a bottle down for your tastebuds to be reckoned with as you hold back the laughter (see: Restaurant Karla).

Spend your Sunday afternoon in smørrebrød paradise at Restaurant Kronborg (Brolæggerstræde 12, 1211). Witty servers will talk you through not over-ordering their delightfully delicate open-faced sandwiches and which snaps compliment, while families and friends gather, pissing the afternoon away in this cozy basement-level institution. But, the crowning classic that takes the tavern experience to the next level is Hansens Gamle Familiehave (Pile Allé 10, 12, 2000 Frederiksberg) – a spot slightly away from the city center, perched along Frederiksberg Park. Dating back to 1850, Hansens is overflowing with only a specific brand of quirk the Danes can execute, and you can feel the decades of family touches and local appreciation that has fueled generations of patrons. At first glance, the checkerboard tablecloths make you want write Hansens off as a family-friendly dud made for average food and drawn-out family Sunday lunches, but, the plentiful menu delivers (try the zesty choucroute-like pork-paprika dish). The long tables are heaving with diners in party mode and the decor is nothing to turn your nose up at. Look around and you’ll notice eccentric artwork and even a dedicated dining room to the cherished 20th century artist/humorist Storm P. – once a regular – and as usual – proves that Danish dining is always replete with a quirk or two and defies that notion that “traditional” dining has to be stale or boring.

Go experimental: Italy and Denmark – where two brilliant worlds collide
If you are going to invest your time and money in one experimental dining experience, go to Barabba (Store Kongensgade 34). Run by two Italian chefs, the shabby chic dining room feels like a clash of southern Italy with modern Danish sensibility, crowned by showstopping spearmint-green Murano lighting that sparkles above while you enjoy a nine course tasting menu including the most flavorful chickpea farinata (pancake) and succulent octupus you’ll ever enjoy. The standout? My pasta fever dream: spaghetti with butter colatura (anchovy) and caviar – the most unforgettable, indulgent delight that is the holy grail for a pasta lover. A solid new wave soundtrack and a rotating cast of cool Italian chefs presenting their creations tableside makes this place sheer heaven.