Perhaps this was the ultimate sojourn. I have taken brief trips before but never have I packed so much into four days in my life. When we booked our Stockholm excursion we gleefully presumed that four days, three nights was plenty. Deep down I thought about all of the setbacks – mainly flight delays – and anything else that would put a damper on our trip. Sure, Sweden isn’t exactly a hop/skip/or jump away, but when you love Norwegian Air as much as we do, you’ll happily sacrifice your bed for a night flight anywhere.
When visiting all major Scandinavian cities at first I feel serenely overwhelmed by the spartan vistas, but find myself never fully achieving the drainage that comes with a Paris or Rome experience. I knew this would help the cause of avoiding as much sleep as possible. Bikes, bridges, and beauty abound, and Stockholm is a large city, with varying neighborhoods – from village-like to sprawling – that don’t seem cohesive – perhaps due water infiltrating the city’s layout. Stockholm is easy to maneuver – by foot, public transport, or… boat. Taxis can be costly, but when visiting for a few days. they’re worth the time-saving splurge. We based ourselves in the hip Södermalm area at the Scandic Sjöfartshotellet (Katarinavägen 26). A friendly Scandinavian chain, this Scandic had views of the Baltic, a fun rooftop bar, and rooms that were nostalgic of Swedish 70s seafaring culture. I was in love. Yes, there was an odd stale smell stemming from the waterways, and seagulls seemed to stalk our deck (and devour our sunrise McDonald’s snack), but it was all part of the charm. Initially a working class territory south of the historical Gamla Stan, Södermalm is made up of main thoroughfares replete with Scandi chain stores, indie shops, cafes, and everything in between. Laid back Swedes love life, not veering far from the Mediterraneans with their cafe culture and penchant for wiling the days away when sunshine beams. They even define their daily downtime as fika, a cornerstone of Swedish life that prioritizes daily gatherings over warm beverages usually accompanied by pastry. I underestimated the Swedes’ sweet tooth, and baked goods are truly prevalent everywhere. From sticky, cardamom-laced kanelbullar aka cinnamon buns, to coconut-coated chokladbollar and everything in between, it is impossible to not find a cafe to transform into the fika state of mind. The Eastern influences of cardamom and saffron weave their way through Swedish pastry, and although saffron is usually reserved for Christmastime, it was a treat to enjoy its flavor permeating through an ice cream scoop. A good place to initiate yourself into Swedish pastry is at the beloved chain Fabrique (locations around the city), while also finding a good indie-owned bakery in tandem.
Pastry aside, the Swedish palate is an intense clash of bitter, tart, sweet, salty, fishy, and fruity – sometimes all at once. Unexpected flavors emerged during every dinner, especially at Swedish gastropubs Pelikan (Blekingegatan 40, 116 62) and Kvarnen (Tjärhovsgatan 4, 116 21), which set the stage for two memorable meals. Storied interiors featuring sweeping ceilings, wood paneling, seafaring-themed art, and dim globular lighting traversed between elegant and casual. Convivial servers delighted and instructed – whether it was which aquavit to kick off with, or what beers would complement, and which classic dishes to choose. One of the best appetizers I have tried in my lifetime, Toast Skagen, was a delicate yet supple prawn salad atop crispy toast sprinkled with bleak roe (a Swedish caviar). The varying textures and cold, fruity taste were what I wish every meal would feature, rivaling our North American lobster roll. Lucy was more adventurous sampling gubbröra – anchovies, eggs, parsley, and dill served on sweet brown bread. Cliched, yes, but the Swedish meatballs were hearty yet delicate thanks to tart lingonberry sauce, accompanied by the creamiest mashed potatoes that rivaled my mom’s. Perhaps one of the best dishes I’ve ever enjoyed was Kvarnen’s simple presentation of smoked salmon with a slice of lemon, hedge of dill, and savoury dill-tinged creamed potatoes. Sampling “new” Scandi, Nytorget 6 (Nytorget 6, 116 40) was another assault on the tastebuds – with an enjoyable fish stew, seasonal asparagus, and juicy rotisserie chicken – but the rushed and unfriendly service coupled with dishes that had too much going on ended up making me miss the traditional delights of Pelikan and Kvarnen.
Aside from eating, we spent our time wandering around Södermalm’s storybook lanes and impressive (and Abba-free) vintage stores. Gamla Stan is the most touristic part of town, and while somewhat adorable, its two delights were the fried herring stand Nystekt Stromming (Kornhamnstorg 1) and harbor to board an afternoon cruise that sailed through the waterways of Djurgårdsbrunnsviken through the tranquil and leafy Djurgården. If you’re like me and want to outfit your home in mid-century Swedish design, stroll around Vasastan and pine over pottery at Bacchus Antik (Upplandsgatan 46) and Antique & Quriosashopen (Upplandsgatan 44). Shopping up an appetite, make your way to the grandeur of food hall Östermalms saluhall in the upscale Östermalm area – perfect for all your picnic necessities from an endless parade of seafood purveyors.
Nightlife revolves around ex-industrial area Hornstulls, and Debaser (Hornstulls strand 4) is a throwback to university days with fun Britpop and alternative nights. Situated along a waterway of course, if this were any other city there would be something eerie about this waterlogged clubland. Maybe it’s the fact that sunrise begins around 3am or that Stockholm simply doesn’t have an air of danger – it’s hard to feel uneasy in this town. Street parties and neighborhood bars flood Södermalm and it was easy to get caught up at bars like Snotty Sound Bar (Skånegatan 90). While liquor isn’t as shockingly priced as Oslo, it was still fun drinking brews in the pinnacle of cool – at our friend’s Airbnb, owned by a Swedish-German electro DJ.
I slept for 12 hours in four days. Maybe it’s because I was completely invigorated and enlightened by the abundance of design, the earthy flower child friendliness of Swedes, and the fact that nighttime takes a backseat to daytime. It became clear that the only way to truly enjoy Stockholm was to believe that time had no meaning. When Lucy and I sat on our deck looking at the Baltic and talking until 6am, I awoke two hours later feeling like I had slept for days. I definitely felt the harsh reality of time upon returning to New York, but it only reinforced the dreamlike revel of our Swedish interlude.
elbows on the table 