My friend mentioned a potential visit to Lille, sparking a reflection on my time there in September 2017. Lille is not just the northwestern Hauts-de-France Eurostar stop en route to Paris. Lille represents many things. This is is a place of cultural elasticity where French and Belgian tradition collide.
Vieux-Lille is a ten minute drive to Eurostar terminals, and best experienced on foot. L’Esplanade B&B (42b Façade de l’Esplanade) was our base. This beautiful structure is removed from the town center, quietly facing the green Esquermes area, featuring the Citadelle de Lille. The B&B’s facade is in classic Lille style, unlike what you’ll find in most French cities. Brick, Flemish-style structures are the norm here, replete with oversized windows and tall, narrow doors. Owned by a charming couple, our room was huge and modern, kitted out with quirky modern furnishings, a grand old fireplace, and of course, a Nespresso machine. Breakfast was a Continental dream, from chewy gaufres to fresh patisserie.
Shopping was my main draw, and we had just missed Lille’s crowning event – the annual Braderie de Lille, also known as Europe’s largest flea market. Along the shopping district, prominent French designers from Vuitton to Hermes represent, but the real magic is within various vintage stores brimming with French designers. The buzz is in the scavenger hunt within these unfussy shops. You’ll unlock random finds – from Dior to Chanel bags to YSL scarves with prices that put Paris to shame, served up by friendly shopkeepers [although knowing basic French comes in handy]. Many shops were restocking after the Braderie blitz, which made me wonder what gems I could have discovered two weeks earlier. My most stereotypical French shopping moment ever occurred when a local lady covertly tried selling me her deceased grandmother’s Chanel accessories, all in a whispered hush outside of a vintage store, so the shopkeeper/friend wouldn’t find out about her “side hustle.”
After a morning of commerce I wanted nothing more than to while away the afternoon at Méert (25-27 Rue Esquermoise, 59000). This patisserie, chocolate shop, tea room, and fine dining restaurant has operated as one big, sweet, French indulgence since the 18th century. Sitting in an elegant, slightly gaudy tea room is one of my favorite European delights, and a privilege. Enjoying a meticulously prepared chocolat chaud and haute patisserie, including Méert’s lauded gooey gaufres was time well spent. While on the sweet tooth tip, Lille is also home to the original Paul patisserie (that sprouted many a global Paul), and the stained glass facade makes for a pretty cool flagship.
The smell of Maroilles, a strong cow’s milk cheese, will infiltrate your nostrils as you wander around. The perfect venue to experience this cheesy goodness is at an estaminet. The estaminet is to Northern France what the brasserie is to Paris. These rustic taverns are outfitted with knick knacks like old utensils and rickety portraits hanging from musty dusty dark walls lit by candlelight. The bars are stocked aplenty with local beers and apertifs, and the menus are heavy on cheese, meat, and potatoes. Maroilles flavored soups, tarts and carbonnade flamande round out the richness, and ending dessert with la mousse speculoos was how every meal should conclude, at least in my perfect world. Rue de Gand is lined with estaminets that all appear similar, some better than the other. We enjoyed Estaminet Chez La Vieille (60 Rue de Gand, 59000) and Estaminet La Vieille France across the street. After walking off a rich dinner, we descended upon a French carnival in the Esquermes across from our B&B. An endless parade of sweet stands fulfilled my candy coated dreams, including a chocolate and pistachio swirl cone (flavors clearly catering to the heightened French palette). Even though we enjoyed visiting some lively bars thanks to the abundant student population, I much preferred walking around a whimsical carnival among the Lillois in this dreamy city.
elbows on the table 