When Tim revealed that he was planning a surprise February weekend away, Pittsburgh was looming in the back of my mind. For years I had mentioned my desire to visit The Andy Warhol Museum, and hearing mutterings about a city “rising from the [literal] ashes” seemed exciting. Then of course, Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown visit solidified that Pittsburgh’s renaissance was well underway.
The arrival journey was filled with the usual holiday weekend rush hour fodder. We defied traffic, snaked our way through stressful security, and handled my fear of flying in small planes somewhat calmly. Leaving the uncomfortable trappings of domestic travel behind, we touched down in PGH to an empty airport that contrasted with LGA’s madness. “Where are all the people?” was my first thought.
Passing through 35 minutes of darkness, through never ending suburban roads and a tunnel, you’re met with a brightly lit cityscape, tangled in a smattering of bridges connecting pockets of grand, lit up skyscrapers – on the banks of the conjoining Three Rivers. Pittsburgh’s “spaghetti” motorways curtail in and out of the metro area, providing an even more interesting ride. Moving on from the somewhat exciting feel of Downtown, passing through various, dimly lit neighborhoods with non-functioning industrial builds grasped a feel for the Pittsburgh I was expecting.
Pittsburgh does not feel “cheerful”, but rather stoic and purposeful, as expected, considering the city’s past. Overcast, cloudy skies are the norm, complimenting the terrain’s sedated color scheme. There is a no-nonsense, driving work ethic that permeates through everything. Entrepreneurial young business owners seem intent on giving customers the best experience – whether you’re in a dive bar or high end restaurant. A “roll up the sleeves” dedication to quality and dependability is something that runs deep here.
The Ace Hotel was our base in the East Liberty neighborhood. As our driver noted, this area was untouchable only a few years ago, only to be redeveloped as a stereotypical “Brooklyn light”. Despite that, there is a melting pot of locals and new inhabitants, breathing creative life into an area so clearly deserving. A few minutes over in Shadyside, streets of massive turn of the 20th century homes were reminiscent of London, and relics of the city’s grand past. Thinking we could walk from East Liberty to Bloomfield in a few quick steps was wrong, and taxis became our best friend. The city’s sprawling layout isn’t akin to quick neighborhood jaunts, unless you’re spending a lot of time in the Downtown Strip and Cultural Districts.
Bloomfield & Lawrenceville
APTEKA (4606 Penn Ave, 15224) Friday night’s arrival called for a swift check in and immediate cocktails. While I was swayed to linger in The Ace’s lobby bar thanks to a cool anti-Valentine’s party playing 80s and 90s jams, I was intent on a late night snack at APTEKA. Pittsburgh’s dominant culture is Central and Eastern European, meaning starchy, hearty goodness does not disappoint. I do not love pierogies but can appreciate innovative adaptations. The atmosphere of this vegan, Central/Eastern European spot was romantic industrial chic – where Pittsburgh purpose meats dreamy. A successful trifecta of unique imported liqueurs, wildflowers draped everywhere, and a standout menu of the best vegan pierogies one could ask for rounded out the APTEKA experience. The pierogi should be Pittburgh’s mascot, so there is clearly a level of excellence that chefs must reach to impress discerning locals. There was nothing more appropriate than starting the night with an apertif and sampling of crispy pierogi dressed with bright red beets, cool green cucumbers, and creme fraiche. It was the fuel needed to move on to our next stop.
Nico’s Recovery Room (178 Pearl St, 15224) Amidst the row houses and alleyways is this wood paneling-clad corner tavern, with an atmosphere that hasn’t changed in 40 years. We plonked down at the bar and in true Pennsylvania dive bar tradition, were greeted with an ash tray followed by ice cold Iron City beers. I enjoyed Nico’s warmth so much that we returned the following night at their popular karaoke party, which is apparently the “best in Pittsburgh”. Despite wanting to sing a tune or two, the list was fully booked up – the highlight being a jolly older man who told the crowd that “the 70s ruled” then belted out Fleetwood Mac’s “Go Your Own Way”. Everybody in the bar sang. My corner tagline for this place would be “Nico’s Recovery Room is the remedy for Pittsburgh-style fun at its best.”
Arsenal Cider House & Wine Cellar (300 39th St, 15201) A husband and wife operation and the first cidery in Western PA, makes Arsenal both a brand and bar that has a lot going for it. Named after the Allegheny Arsenal across the street, the cidery sits in a typical row house, with a living room-turned-bar on the first floor, and the backyard serving as a premier daytime drinking destination. Again, the sensibly entrepreneurial spirit of the city is reflected everywhere, and Arsenal is a perfect example. Flavors range from dry to fruity and deliver the boozy kick that cider is known for. While I am normally suspect of brands that try to evoke an “old timey” 19th century pastiche, Arsenal does it right without laying on the kitsch.
Braddock
Superior Motors (1211 Braddock Ave, Braddock 15104) Nestled adjacent to the city’s lone functioning U.S. Steel plant that sits along the Monongahela River, Superior Motors is a fine dining spot in an old Chevy showroom. That is a mouthful, as is everything about this restaurant. Not just any modern farm-to-table space, Superior Motors has embedded itself into the Braddock community, a place that has clearly been through more downs than ups. Despite all that, the vibe was exciting and the gleaming lights of U.S. Steel added a magical yet surreal glow through the large windows. After a day of hefty old world European “peasant” food, the transition to modern American cuisine was welcomed. We quickly propped up at the bar and were seated next to the lauded sculptor whose artwork sits in front of the restaurant, and looking around you could sense that the “who’s who” of the Pittsburgh area frequent this place. Sitting down for dinner, our server was young and incredibly excited about the food; a cheerleader for everything on the menu. Everything we sampled: zingy ghost pepper beef tartar, brown buttery short rib, shoyu-laden sturgeon, smoked potatoes in a creamy whey vinaigrette, and more smokiness in a banana cake – were inventive and enjoyable. I also appreciated the vastness of their booze offerings – from high brow wine and spirits to cheap cans of Iron City lager. It was clear that the Superior Motors team want to ensure that their patrons preferences are seen to, sans judgement.
The Strip District
I wasn’t expecting much from this area full of converted warehouses and tatty sports gear stalls – but it turned out to be a highlight. The main drag is dotted with low-level food market stalls, Italian, Asian, and Polish delicacy shops, and an endless parade of restaurants and bars.
Kelly O’s (100 24th St, 15222) Thanks to an exuberant Uber driver, we were pointed in the direction of Kelly O’s. The standalone diner was a greasy spoon dream, outfitted with a giant banner notifying us that we were in “Steelers Country”. Living in NYC, our idea of a weekend breakfast generally involves a bagel, so sitting down to a dish of corned beef hash with poached eggs is quite the Saturday morning treat. Bonus points for perfectly toasted marble rye and quintessentially friendly diner service. The buzz of this place made it clear that this is a go-to for “Yinzers” (local dialect for people from the area).
La Prima Espresso Company (205 21st St, 15222) Pittsburgh’s sizable Italian population is apparent in Bloomfield, but more so in the Strip, where there are copious delicacy shops, along with this coffee bar and cafe. The coffee side was quite spartan and no frills, with a gaggle of old timers conversing in Italian, and the general buzz of people getting their morning caffeine. The cafe specializes in hot dishes and varieties of pizza- including a nearly perfect Margherita slice with a transcendent crust. I would return for the pizza and old school, no-nonsense aesthetics that felt more Italian than the hoards of trendy spots that vie for authenticity.
S&D Polish Deli (2204 Penn Ave, 15222) The Strip was interesting because it was a cultural melting pot, and Central/Eastern Europe’s influence is predominant across the city. Traditional Polish food of the “peasant” variety is not exactly “light” eating, but after walking all morning, the brisk weather called for hearty fare. One half of the deli sells Polish foodstuffs, while the back is a cafeteria-like affair, with an obscure counter that purveys heaving plates of the classics. We opted for the reliable- kielbasa on a delicious roll, boiled potato pierogies, and one of the best stuffed cabbages I had ever sampled. A notable addition was haluksi, fried egg noodles and cabbage, resulting in buttery goodness. The price to food ratio was all about the value – a running theme in this town.
Primanti Brothers (46 18th St, 15222) I am not a fan of french fries making their way into sandwiches, unless one or two unlucky stragglers attaches to my cheeseburger. This local chain specializes in monstrous sandwiches stuffed with fries and a heaping layer of coleslaw. I personally didn’t see what was so special about this local mainstay, somewhere you’d find on Man vs. Food or other shows about extreme eating. I was impressed that this location is a 24 hour joint, and that it felt like a sports bar meets diner as waitresses deliver your freezer-wrapped sandwich in hand, sans tray. Being married to someone who loves sandwiches like Dagwood made this a must visit. While Tim devoured his stack of pastrami, I opted for the chili which was exceptionally spicy and a good alternative. When in Pennsylvania, one must “Whiz” it out, and the cheese fries, in all of their glistening, neon yellow glory, were the perfect hangover helper. Would I rush to return here? Probably not. But, I would return for the theatrics of witnessing patrons like the Brits behind us whose conversation dwindled into silence as they greedily devoured their sandwiches – in the obvious awareness that experiences happen, and stay in Pittsburgh.
Klaven’s Ice Cream Parlor (2801 Penn Ave, 15222) I love old ice cream parlors because they are definitely a dying breed, and tend to be in bustling parts of town near antique shops and other cutesy businesses. Klaven’s is definitely an outlier, situated near nothing adorable, in an empty stretch of the Strip. Sounds like a destination, right? The area might look intimidating and somewhere you wouldn’t consider bringing the kids – but it’s just another part of town that is in transformation. It will soon be home to tech startups and high rise apartment buildings. I was excited to visit for a Saturday afternoon sweet treat, only to be met with a sign on the door noting a private party was happening. Did I think about crashing the party, perhaps buying a mini bike and pretending I was an out of town cousin? Yes. Did I walk away huffing, only to go to some “hipster” ice cream spot wishing I was enjoying an old fashioned sundae? Yes. We did return to an empty Klaven’s on Sunday, and it was definitely worth the trip. The place is stuck in time and the chocolate ice cream was devilishly rich – with a texture that was almost cake-like, and the chocolate whipped cream was best trimming a sundae could ask for.
North Shore
The Andy Warhol Museum (117 Sandusky St, 15212) This is one of the world’s most comprehensive collections dedicated to a singular artist, and the museum’s experience was pretty mesmerizing. Eight floors symbolize Warhol’s career, and the experience allows you to experience his ascent as a pop culture icon – from his humble Pittsburgh beginnings on the top floor, with the levels below representing a different decade in his life/career. Maybe there is something symbolic about this layout, around starting at the top in your youth and reaching the bottom with older age. Warhol’s work ethic and development as a commercial artist was in sync with his origins and the success that befitted him. He was a visionary who wasn’t afraid to turn his art into a business while inserting himself into the most elite social circles as key player and “court artist” all at the same time. His modest beginnings were a testament to the first generation American work ethic that he never abandoned, and despite what some might think, he was a one of a kind ingenue who accomplished his mission of making the world a more visually vibrant place.
elbows on the table 